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Biancograt at dawn from the summit of Piz Morteratsch

The Best Alpine Route in Europe? Climb the Piz Bernina

Conquer the most easterly Alpine 4000er via one of the best mid-grade alpine routes in the World.

Alpine Climbing, Hiking Moderate, Difficult

Biancograt at dawn from the summit of Piz Morteratsch
Biancograt at dawn from the summit of Piz Morteratsch Photo: Jon Morgan


Climbing the Piz Bernina by any route is a major, high-mountain adventure but the absolutely classic way to ascend the peak is via the Biancograt ridge. This guidebook will show you how to climb the route as well as approach the relevant hut, climb a gorgeous acclimatisation peak and descend back to civilisation via another outrageously beautiful ridge traverse. It's safe to say that if you do the 4 days described here, you'll have completed one of the finest multi-day alpine adventures in Europe.

The Biancograt itself is the focus point of this trip but every day on it is special in its own way. Even approaching the Tschierva Hut is a fun trip and there are 3 options of how to do it! Our suggested acclimatisation peak - Piz Morteratsch - is gorgeous and affords perfect views of the Biancograt, and then the main event itself is worth all the hype it receives. It is never "hard" but it's exposed in places and breathtakingly aesthetic. The final day of the trip is over the Piz Palü and, once again, what the route lacks in pure difficulty it more than compensates for with exposure. Once you're over that peak, all's that left is an easy walk back to a cable car, a triumphant ride down and a celebration in the charming Swiss resort town of Pontresina.

Routes included

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