Bernina Haute Route: Coaz Hut to Pontresina

Traverse of the Chaputschins

Ski Touring Difficult

Distance
18 km
Ascent
846 m
Descent
1.7 km
Duration
6-7 hrs
Low Point
1.8 km
High Point
3.3 km
Gradient
26˚
VIEW ON MAP
Bernina Haute Route: Coaz Hut to Pontresina Map

Description

From the hut reverse your route of yesterday a short distance, to about 2810m, then continue up to the SW, aiming to find the easiest line onto the glacier above, the upper Roseg Glacier. You are on a broad shelf, with the odd rock, above the glacier itself. Aim to join the glacier itself level with an obvious large band of crevasses on your L as you skin up, at roughly 3000m. Now go easily up the glacier, aiming for the Fuorcla di Chaputschin at 3219m. Skis on packs now you follow the easy mixed ridge up to the summit of Chaputschin Pitschen at 3325m, followed by descent onto the flat glacier the far side. Traverse to the base of the NW ridge of Il Chaputschin, an optional summit, which is also a mixed scramble to its top, at 3387m. From here reverse down the NW ridge then ski to a nick in the ridge below, at about 3210m, allowing access to the large glacier below, via a short steep, sometimes rocky, ski down. Continue down beautiful easy slopes to the N, then forced NE, under steep ground above. There is a short steep section through rocks here, heading down the R, onto easier ground at about 2780m. From here you are taking a long diagonal down and L, to access steeper slopes that lead down to the Lej de Vadret lake. From here it is pretty flat down to Roseg at 1999m, then follow the main track down to Pontresina.

Difficulty

Difficult

Serious gradient of 30-38 degrees where a real risk of slipping exists.

Medium Exposure (E2)

2 out of 4

As well as the slope itself, there are some obstacles (such as rock outcrops) which could aggravate injury.

Remoteness

4 out of 4

In the high mountains or remote conditions, all individuals must be completely autonomous in every situation.

Best time to visit

March, April, May

Features

  • Alpine
  • Ski Mountaineering

Equipment required

  • Rope
  • Skins
  • Ice axe
  • Crampons
  • Glacier kit

Similar routes nearby

Guidebooks in this area