Bernina Haute Route: Marinelli Hut to Coaz Hut.

Steady climb to Piz Sella at 3511m, followed by an airy traverse and great glacial descent.

Also in Sondrio, Italy

Ski Touring Difficult

Distance
9.9 km
Ascent
884 m
Descent
1.1 km
Duration
4-5 hrs
Low Point
2.6 km
High Point
3.5 km
Gradient
43˚
Bernina Haute Route: Marinelli Hut to Coaz Hut. Map

From the Marinelli Hut you initially reverse your tracks from the day before, to the Marinelli Pass at about 3000m. From here you head N, NE, then E, ascending gently across the wide glacier. You are heading towards the Fuorcla Sella, passing through some broken rocks at about 3150m. Beyond these, visiting the col itself is optional- it is perhaps more logical to head up the broad shoulder to it’s L, heading to your summit for the day, Piz Sella at 3511m. By now you should be well acclimatised, so it shouldn’t be feeling as hard as previous days. From here there is a ridge traverse done on skis mainly (in good conditions) possibly with crampons for occasional sections. You may choose to pass under, to the N, one or two of the minor summits you pass such as Dschimels Gemelli. In any case you are aiming to get beyond a steep snowy spur that extends to the N to easier ground beyond. La Sella, 3564m, is an optional summit beyond this point. Now you are descending diagonally to the NW, aiming to pass under the steep spur on your L, at about 3250m. It is steeper now, about 35 degrees, heading down and L, taking the best line through the crevasses, slowly angling down and R to easier ground. You are heading N now, until at about 2850m, you slowly curve NW then W, passing through two zones of crevasses. This puts you on a flatter section of the Roseg Glacier. Head just N of W, at about 2800m, fairly horizontally, aiming to pass just below the base of a spur, that descends from point 2938m. Now head N on a convex slope that eases of just before the Coaz Hut at 2611m.

Difficulty

Difficult

Serious gradient of 30-38 degrees where a real risk of slipping exists.

Medium Exposure (E2)

2 out of 4

As well as the slope itself, there are some obstacles (such as rock outcrops) which could aggravate injury.

Remoteness

4 out of 4

In the high mountains or remote conditions, all individuals must be completely autonomous in every situation.

Best time to visit

March, April, May

Features

  • Alpine
  • Ski Mountaineering

Equipment required

  • Rope
  • Skins
  • Ice axe
  • Crampons
  • Glacier kit

Similar routes nearby

Guidebooks in this area