Bernese Oberland 4000m Peak Tour: Finsteraarhorn Hut to the Aletschorn

Bernese Oberland

Day 4: This is a long distance journey to relocate to beneath the Aletschhorn. NOTE THE OLD BIVI HUT HERE WAS COMPLETELY DESTROYED BY AVALANCHE JAN '19 SO THERE IS NO HUT ANY MORE

Ski Touring Moderate

Distance
19 km
Ascent
1.2 km
Descent
1.2 km
Duration
7-8 hrs
Low Point
2.1 km
High Point
3.3 km
Gradient
21˚
VIEW ON MAP
Bernese Oberland 4000m Peak Tour: Finsteraarhorn Hut to the Aletschorn Map

Description

Make sure you have an alpine start for this day as your final 3 hours will be uphill on a S facing slope to the bivi hut. We left at 6 and that was only just early enough. The first section is the reverse of your day 1 to Konkordia, the rest is new.

The first section is the reverse of your day 1 to Konkordia, over the Grunhornlucke at 3278m. The ski the far side will be tricky as it will be frozen, but the advantage being that from Konkordia downwards you can glide effortlessly down the Aletsch Glacier, trending to the glacial R bank, steepening up as you get down to about 2100m to put you skins on. This last section down the Aletsch Glacier may involve some weaving through seracs and crevasses, but there is often a track in. Skin up the long valley floor initially, then up onto the glacier more steeply, taking a blunt snowy nose to the L in ascent of a small icefall, before traversing back R on flat glacier, then rising gently to the cosy Mittelaletsch Bivouac Hut at 3013m. There are places for 18 including mattresses and blankets. It is reasonably well insulated, but no stove or fire. There is an honesty box for the 15CHF hut fee (10 for CAS/Reciprocal Rights card holders), prices in May 2018.

Difficulty

Moderate

Slopes become slightly steeper at around 25-30 degrees.

Medium Exposure (E2)

2 out of 4

As well as the slope itself, there are some obstacles (such as rock outcrops) which could aggravate injury.

Remoteness

4 out of 4

In the high mountains or remote conditions, all individuals must be completely autonomous in every situation.

Best time to visit

April, May

Equipment required

  • Rope
  • Skins
  • Ice axe
  • Crampons

Similar routes nearby

Guidebooks in this area