Bernese Oberland 4000m Peak Tour: The Finsteraarhorn

Bernese Oberland

Day 3: The largest summit in the Bernese Oberland and the 15th highest major 4000m peak in the Alps.

Ski Touring Difficult

Distance
5.9 km
Ascent
1.3 km
Descent
1.3 km
Duration
4-5 hrs
Low Point
3 km
High Point
4.3 km
Gradient
58˚
VIEW ON MAP
Bernese Oberland 4000m Peak Tour: The Finsteraarhorn Map

Description

This is a straight up out and back trip from the Finsteraarhorn Hut. The glacial slopes approaching the high col, the Hugisattel at 4088m, are relatively steep but are wide, hence great for the ski down. The ridge itself to the summit is very airy with huge drops in places down the E face to your L. However the rock is excellent and it is a very enjoyable scramble.

From the hut either climb steeply up the continuation of the slope you used to approach the hut, or traverse horizontally S to get around a rocky buttress, then ascend relatively gentle slopes up and L to meet the other route 100m or so above the hut. Continue up wide slopes to the N, aiming for the Fruhstuckplatz at 3616m. This is a rocky ridge that you will easily cross, usually for a short while on foot, before traversing horizontally onto the next glaciated section to the W. Head up here more steeply again until the Hugisattel at 4088m, where you leave your skis. Scramble up the ridge, on ts R side, taking the line of least resistance and watching out for cornices. There are tricky passages, with occasional downhill steps too, needing good ropework, eventually leading to the summit after 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Descent is the reverse of ascent to the skis and then down to the hut.

Difficulty

Difficult

Serious gradient of 30-38 degrees where a real risk of slipping exists.

Extreme Exposure (E4)

4 out of 4

In case of a fall, the skier faces certain death.

Remoteness

4 out of 4

In the high mountains or remote conditions, all individuals must be completely autonomous in every situation.

Best time to visit

April, May

Features

  • Cliffs

Equipment required

  • Rope
  • Skins
  • Ice axe
  • Crampons

Similar routes nearby

Guidebooks in this area