Col de Beugeant

Chamonix

One of the classic tours of the Agiuille Rouge with a short section of exposed climbing

Ski Touring Difficult

Distance
3.8 km
Ascent
495 m
Descent
1 km
Duration
2-3 hrs
Low Point
1.9 km
High Point
2.8 km
Gradient
43˚
VIEW ON MAP
Col de Beugeant Map

Description

This is one of the many excellent ways to get into the Berard valley.

From the top of the Floria draglift, traverse around Combe des Aiguilles Crochues, holding as much height as possible, until at the foot of the long blunt ridge above the Cabane de la Tête Aubuy. Sidestep/shuffle uphill for 10 vertical metres to a large flat area. Put skins on here and climb up to Lac Blanc, which is completely frozen in winter. Cross the Lac Blanc and start heading rightwards instead of towards the Col du Belvédère. From above the Lac Blanc hut climb up into the bottom of the Combe de Beugeant at around 2500 meters. Skin up trending slightly rightwards. Be careful of the potential overhead avalanche hazard. About 200 meters below the top of the couloir, stop skinning and transition to crampons. Locate a rocky ramp leading leftwards. There is 100 meters of easy but exposed rock scrambling. There are a couple of bolts for protection, but if is recommended to take some extra slings as well as 2-3 quickdraws and maybe a cam. Once at the Col de Beugeant itself, make a short abseil down into the north side (one 30 meter rope is usually sufficient). Ski down and leftwards through beautiful and sheltered north facing bowls before joining up with the other descents in the Bérard Valley. Keep to the right bank or cross the river at the bridge to exit rightwards and towards the beginner slopes of Buet. Stop for a celebratory drink at the conveniently located bar at the end of the slopes before hopping on the train back to Les Praz.

Difficulty

Difficult

Serious gradient of 30-38 degrees where a real risk of slipping exists.

High Exposure (E3)

3 out of 4

In case of a fall, death is highly likely.

Remoteness

4 out of 4

In the high mountains or remote conditions, all individuals must be completely autonomous in every situation.

Best time to visit

January, February, March, April

Features

  • Alpine
  • Cliffs
  • Ski Mountaineering

Equipment required

  • Rope
  • Skins
  • Ice axe
  • Crampons

Similar routes nearby

Guidebooks in this area