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An epic traverse of the most alpine summit in Jotunheimen

Alpine Climbing Difficult

9.9 km
903 m
904 m
Low Point
1.3 km
High Point
2 km
Austanbotntindtraversen Map

This is a classic traverse in Hurrungane. You get a narrow ridge and an even more narrow summit with a spectacular view!


Start at the parking lot at Berdalsbandet. Follow the track up to approximately 1450m where you start traversing the massif on the south side. Traverse on the north side of Vetle Austanbotn and start ascending the south ridge. Follow the ridge until it gets narrow.

The ridge ends at a little pinnacle. From here you can either down climb on the north side or abseil down the east side. Continue the traverse past the slabs on the east side of the summit of Søre Austanbotntind, then head to the summit.

From Søre Austanbotntind follow the narrow ridge to the foot of Austanbotntind, short roping this section is probably the best way. The direct route follows the edge and involves exposed climbing at grade 4+. There are 3-4 pitches to the first summit and from here easy scrambling to the exposed main summit. Enjoy the view!

Descend via the north-west ridge. The first obstacle are some slabs in an exposed section down to the col between Midtre and Store Austanbotntind. Making an abseil (60 meters) here would be the safest choice. From the col, there's some scrambling up to Midtre Austanbotntind. Traverse past the North Couloir and up to the west summit.

From the west summit, join the marked trail back to the parking lot at Berdalsbandet.



The beginning of truly technical terrain which might involve pitched climbing on rock and/or ice, exposed terrain and complex route finding in ascent and descent. Equivalent to AD, AD+

Medium Exposure

2 out of 4

The route features some exposed and/or difficult to protect sections.


3 out of 4

Little chance of being seen or helped in case of an accident.

Best time to visit

between June and September

Equipment required

  • Quickdraws
  • Wires and Friends

Similar routes nearby

Guidebooks in this area