Aiguille du Tour, 3540m

From the Albert Premier Hut, with a suitably early start, follow the good track, which leads gently up and then easily down onto the Le Tour Glacier. This is actually highly crevassed, though early in the season they are normally well covered. Don’t be tempted to keep your rope in your pack, even though it is low angled, and make sure there is plenty of space between you on the glacier. The glacier steepens up as you head towards the Col Superior du Tour. There is normally some easy rocky scrambling to get through the col onto the Swiss side, hopefully into the early morning sunshine, for a quick breather and a drink. Continue around the Aiguille Purtscheller, heading to one of two places, according to the difficulty of the bergschrund. Marked is the route going up the S ridge, an easy scramble to the summit. Equally good is to go to the col between the two summits of the Aiguille du Tour, and then scrambling up the N ridge to the summit. Revel in the spectacular view of two countries- a justifiably popular summit. Descent is the reverse of your ascent, taking care not to knock anything down onto other parties on either ridge.