Petite Verte

Chamonix

Les Grands Montets

Although short, this route packs in plenty of adventure and has a wonderful high mountain ambience.

Alpine Climbing Moderate

Distance
1.2 km
Ascent
264 m
Descent
264 m
Low Point
3.2 km
High Point
3.5 km
Gradient
31˚
VIEW ON MAP
Petite Verte Map

Description

This is a truly classic route which you are unlikely to have to yourself, but that is the price you pay for getting to such a wonderful peak with so little effort. The "approach" (if it can be called that) simply involves riding the Grands Montets cable car all the way to 3295 metres and then walking down the metal steps to the south which lead easily onto the Glacier des Grands Montets.

Once on the glacier walk south-east for 5 - 10 minutes and then, once above the steep icy section at the bottom of the glacier, turn due south and head directly for a small col on the Petite Verte's North-west ridge. Just below the col is a bergschrund (which could be quite wide in a hot summer) and a short 45 degree snow slope, which can feel quite exposed in icy conditions.

Once at the col, make an exposed snow traverse just to the left of the crest of the North-west ridge to a lovely snow arête. Climb this and then do another exposed traverse on the north side of the ridge crest before rejoining the ridge via a short 45 degree snow slope.

Once on the ridge scramble on the crest easily for 20 metres then drop off right onto an exposed platform with an amazing view of the Petit Dru, pass through a little gap and walk to the foot of a 10 metre wall. Climb the wall (3c) and move left at the top to a belay on in-situ slings and then scramble easily for 20 more metres to reach the Petite Verte summit. Soak in the wonderful high mountain ambience and take plenty of photos!

To descend, reverse the route, abseiling the 10 metre wall and downclimbing the rest.

Difficulty

Moderate

May involve slightly more complex glacier hikes, easy but possibly long rock ridges and steep snow up to 45 degrees. Equivalent to PD, PD+

Medium Exposure

2 out of 4

The route features some exposed and/or difficult to protect sections.

Remoteness

2 out of 4

Away from help but easily accessed.

Best time to visit

July, August

Equipment required

  • Ice axe
  • Crampons
  • Quickdraws
  • Glacier kit
  • Wires and Friends

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Guidebooks in this area