Aiguille de Moine, 3412m. S Face

Chamonix

A classic route up a rocky peak with legendary views of the Mont Blanc Massif

Alpine Climbing Moderate

Distance
2.3 km
Ascent
696 m
Descent
696 m
Low Point
2.7 km
High Point
3.4 km
Gradient
46˚
Aiguille de Moine, 3412m. S Face Map

From the hut backtrack along the path you came up on yesterday a short distance, then follow the cairned climber’s path to the vestigial Moine Glacier, (more of a snow patch) heading to the top of it. There are numerous possibilities from here upwards, but, as is so often the case it is best to follow the most travelled route, as deviations from this will be loose. The are sections of walking, scrambling and climbing and it is good to be slick with transitions between different types of terrain. In broad terms you are heading from the R side of a flat area, at the top of the snow, up a chimney, past a memorial plaque, then another chimney. It is then much easier for a while, with cairned track and easy scrambling sections. The ground takes you out to the L at about 3050m towards a gully. Don’t cross this or go up it, instead take the rocks on the R side of the gully, eventually ending up a flat area above the gully. From here there are various lines leading to the top, most easily going around the summit block to the R. Revel in one of the best views from an easily accessible summit in the whole range. Descent is the same in reverse, with a few anchors in place for the odd short rappel as needed, but mostly it is downclimbing.

Difficulty

Moderate

May involve slightly more complex glacier hikes, easy but possibly long rock ridges and steep snow up to 45 degrees. Equivalent to PD, PD+

Medium Exposure

2 out of 4

The route features some exposed and/or difficult to protect sections.

Remoteness

2 out of 4

Away from help but easily accessed.

Best time to visit

June, July, August, September

Equipment required

  • Ice axe
  • Crampons
  • Quickdraws
  • Glacier kit
  • Wires and Friends

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Guidebooks in this area