Tête Blanche NW Flank

A straightforward high altitude glacial journey, with incredible views

Alpine Climbing Easy

Distance
9.6 km
Ascent
601 m
Descent
608 m
Low Point
3.2 km
High Point
3.7 km
Gradient
14˚
VIEW ON MAP
Tête Blanche NW Flank Map

Description

This is a brilliant summit due to its fantastic location, nestled amongst the giants of the Valais. From here you are in the midst of many high and famous 4000m peaks, with the Dent d’Herens, the Matterhorn and the Dent Blanche being the closest. It is also a great acclimatisation peak for those going onto the highest mountains.

One time with my Dad (in his 70s) we had 2 nights at the Bertol Hut, climbing the Aiguille de la Tsa on the intervening day, then traversing the Tête Blanche to get to the Dent Blanche Hut. We climbed the S Ridge of the Dent Blanche the day after. Many people also make the small diversion to the summit of the Tête Blanche, as part of the Haute Route Glacier Trek, separately described, before descending the Stöckli glacier towards Zermatt.

But it is equally fine as a summit alone and an ideal introductory mountaineering peak. Apart from altitude, route finding and basic glacier travel it should present no difficulties. From the col at the foot of the hut steps rope up and follow what will probably be a well-marked track on the Mont Miné Glacier from other climbers, heading towards and then up the peak. It is important to remember that you are crossing many invisible snow bridges. For that reason, the exact position of the track will vary during the season as snow bridges become apparent, and as the crevasses beneath them widen. Do not hesitate to put in your own route for certain sections if you see a tell-tale saggy snow bridge appearing in the track. Once you taken lots of pictures from the summit, reverse your route to the hut without difficulty.

Difficulty

Easy

The ascent involves simple glacier hiking and/or short, straightforward rock scrambles. Equivalent to Alpine F, F+

Low Exposure

1 out of 4

The route is well protected or easy enough that protection is not required.

Remoteness

3 out of 4

Little chance of being seen or helped in case of an accident.

Best time to visit

June, July, August, September

Equipment required

  • Ice axe
  • Crampons
  • Glacier kit

Similar routes nearby

Guidebooks in this area