Pointes de Mourti North-east Ridge

A brilliant low-grade alpine climb which features a bit of everything, from glacier travel to rocky scrambling.

Alpine Climbing Moderate

Distance
7.8 km
Ascent
750 m
Descent
747 m
Low Point
2.8 km
High Point
3.5 km
Gradient
28˚
Pointes de Mourti North-east Ridge Map

For budding alpinists looking to gain some experience, or experienced mountaineers who just want a fun day out without too much stress, this is a perfect route.

Description

The best way to do the route is to get up early and leave the hut at dawn, so you'll likely be doing the first part of the approach in semi-darkness. As such, a quick recce of the approach to the Glacier de Moiry is recommended the night before climbing this route.

Walk south-east out of the hut (on the same path as for the Pigne de la Lé) and branch off right from the path once you are level with a glacial shelf beneath the Pigne de la Lé's west face. Cross this glacial shelf then pass under the Pigne de la Lé's south-west flank to access the amphitheatre-like bowl at the northern end of the Glacier de Moiry.

Cross this bowl, briefly passing under some jumbled seracs, to reach a broad, vague col at the foot of the Pointe Mourti's north-east ridge. The trip across the bowl to the col is quite crevassed in places, so pay attention throughout and choose your route carefully.

Once at the col, scramble up the Pointe Mourti's north-east ridge, which is blocky and fun to climb. It's not "difficult" but it's exposed in places. Close to the summit the rock ridge ends and gives way to a broad snow arete. Put crampons on and climb this to the summit, which is marked with a large cross.

Descend by the same route back to the hut.

Difficulty

Moderate

May involve slightly more complex glacier hikes, easy but possibly long rock ridges and steep snow up to 45 degrees. Equivalent to PD, PD+

Medium Exposure

2 out of 4

The route features some exposed and/or difficult to protect sections.

Remoteness

3 out of 4

Little chance of being seen or helped in case of an accident.

Best time to visit

June, July, August, September

Equipment required

  • Ice axe
  • Crampons
  • Quickdraws
  • Glacier kit
  • Wires and Friends

Similar routes nearby

Guidebooks in this area