17 m away
Obergabelhorn, 4063m. ENE Ridge via Wellenkuppe.
A beautifully shaped mountain, unusual in having its least difficult route via another summit.
Difficult Alpine Climbing
- Distance
- 7.3 km
- Ascent
- 972 m
- Descent
- 972 m
A justifiably popular traverse of a beautiful mountain, on very good rock.
Alpine Climbing Difficult
From the Rothorn Hut head NW up the Rothorn Glacier, keeping close to a rocky buttress on your L. Look for the weakness that leads through this at about 3480m, heading back L above here and skirting under spot height 3785m to its L. You are aiming to reach the easy snow crest N of pt 3785m, following it over pt 3910m, then continuing up as it becomes rocky, until you meet a short steepening. At this point take a long traverse to the L, on rocky shelves and ledges, aiming for the rocky chimney below the obvious skyline notch, known as the Gabel. Climb this on good rock, alternately in the chimney, on its rib to the L and then back into the chimney. Once at the ridge you climb it, being forced L when it steepens, then back R, taking the line of least resistance, on delicate slabby rocks. Move L round a tower, to another tower, which you pass to its R, followed by easier ground over two bumps in the ridge to the easy summit rocks.
The N Ridge is a great climb in its own right and makes for a fantastic descent, again on good rock, but usually snowier than your ascent, due to its aspect. Initially it is easy mixed ground, descending and over, or round, a couple of small rocky rises before the first significant obstacle called the Bosse. This is usually descended by a couple of rappels, followed by a sharp crest called la Bourrique. After this a large tower lies ahead, known as the Sphinx, which you traverse on its L, with bolts that can be used as runners. The next section is the famous Rasoir pitch, which is a very exposed and photogenic spike of rock, which you climb directly over. Beyond this the final significant tower, called the Dejeuner, is avoided on its R, hence reaching easier ridge on the shoulder at just over 4000m. From here follow the shoulder and its ridge below, heading W, to about 3725m. Here leave the crest to its L, following tracks down on the glacier, under the ridge above. You leave the glacier about 3320m and follow the good path to the Mountet Hut. If you are very determined you may wish to head on down to Zinal, but it is a fantastic location to spend the night, savouring the beauty of the peak you have just traversed, as well as many other fine 4000m peaks.
Difficult
The beginning of truly technical terrain which might involve pitched climbing on rock and/or ice, exposed terrain and complex route finding in ascent and descent. Equivalent to AD, AD+
17 m away
A beautifully shaped mountain, unusual in having its least difficult route via another summit.
Difficult Alpine Climbing
5.5 km away
This is without doubt one of the finest ridges on one of the finest peaks in the Alps.
Difficult Alpine Climbing
7.5 km away
The least difficult route up the most famous mountain in the Alps, if not the world.
Difficult Alpine Climbing
8.1 km away
A true alpine classic with utterly spectacular views across the other 4000ers of the Swiss Valais.
Difficult Alpine Climbing
8.8 km away
A brand new route to the hut, taking a beautiful but easy glacial mountain journey
Easy Alpine Climbing
8.9 km away
A very big day from Täschalp which can be split with a night in the Täsch Hut
Moderate Alpine Climbing
9.2 km away
A classic journey over an incredibly well situated peak.
Moderate Alpine Climbing
9.2 km away
A brilliant low-grade alpine climb which features a bit of everything, from glacier travel to rocky scrambling.
Moderate Alpine Climbing
9.2 km away
A classic, easy alpine route which has some crevasse danger, particularly late in the summer.
Easy Alpine Climbing
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