Approach to the Mischabeljoch Bivouac Hut

Saas Fee

The Mischabel Range

A very big day from Täschalp which can be split with a night in the Täsch Hut

Alpine Climbing Moderate

Distance
8.2 km
Ascent
1.8 km
Descent
99 m
Low Point
2.2 km
High Point
3.8 km
Gradient
22˚
VIEW ON MAP
Approach to the Mischabeljoch Bivouac Hut Map

Description

The Mischabeljoch Bivouac Hut is a very impressive place to spend the night. It is perched on a ridge thousands of metres above the valley floor, attached with cables which whistle in the wind. It is ideally placed for your big day tomorrow.

Take the taxi from Täsch to Täschalp then to the summer hamlet of Ottafe at 2190m. There is a wide dusty track you can follow from there to the Täsch Hut, but more pleasant is the smaller single-track footpath that is well signposted and uncomplicated. This hut could be used as an additional night as acclimatisation for the following days. If you are not staying in the Täsch Hut there is a quicker approach up a very steep footpath direct from the parking to Weingartensee.

From the Täsch Hut follow the path round the toe of the Rotgrat. Continue up the valley lying under the Wissgrat, heading over a small col at about 3140m. Gently drop down, skirting the Weingartensee lake, then join the alternative path that has come direct up from the parking way below. Continue up the path then find a way onto the Weingarten Glacier, just below pt 3478m. Several variations exist, involving some scrambling.

Head up the glacier, initially on the R side in ascent, then more towards the middle. The exact route will vary, so the marked line should not be exactly followed. This leads up to the Mischabeljoch Bivouac Hut lying at the foot of the S Ridge of the Täschhorn.

An alternative is to approach from the neighbouring Saas valley, using the Mittelallalin lift to 3500m and traversing the Alphubel on the way to the bivi hut, which was the way I did it, and adds an additional fine 4000m traverse. This way is not marked here, as it will put you in a different valley system at the end of your journey.

Difficulty

Moderate

May involve slightly more complex glacier hikes, easy but possibly long rock ridges and steep snow up to 45 degrees. Equivalent to PD, PD+

Medium Exposure

2 out of 4

The route features some exposed and/or difficult to protect sections.

Remoteness

3 out of 4

Little chance of being seen or helped in case of an accident.

Best time to visit

June, July, August

Equipment required

  • Ice axe
  • Crampons
  • Glacier kit

Similar routes nearby

Guidebooks in this area