Brêche du Tacul

Chamonix

A lesser known couloir than it's neighbours, with breathtaking scenery of the Grands Jorasses

Ski Touring Extreme

Distance
997 m
Ascent
153 m
Descent
533 m
Duration
0-1 hrs
Low Point
2.9 km
High Point
3.4 km
Gradient
51˚
VIEW ON MAP
Brêche du Tacul Map

Description

Starting from the Aiguille du Midi cable car, exit the lift station and walk down the arête. Ski down the Vallée Blanche, crossing over to the Italian side. Continue skiing down the skier's right side of the Géant Icefall until just above the Salle à Manger. Transition here to skinning. Be aware of the La Noire serac now overhead which is sometimes active and has been known on occasion to reach the Salle à Manger, so this is no place to stop for a picnic.

Skin up the Périades Glacier towards the Col du Tacul until you reach the steeper slopes below the Col du Tacul. Start climbing up the couloir that leads to the Col du Tacul (Capucin Couloir). Instead of continuing up this couloir, trend climber's right and across some easy mixed ground (there may be a small rock step to scramble over). Continue up and slightly rightwards until you the col (Brêche du Tacul). Take in the breath taking views of the Grand Jorasses before dropping into the east facing couloir below. There are two possible entrances, neither of which normally requires an abseil. Ski down the couloir which widens before joining the Mont Mallet Glacier. Continue down this glacier, taking care to avoid large crevasses which usually appear on skier's right side of the fall line. Join the Leschaux glacier and continue to the Mer de Glace and down the final section of the Vallée Blanche.

Difficulty

Extreme

Extreme skiing terrain above 45 degrees. These routes are reserved for experienced experts.

High Exposure (E3)

3 out of 4

In case of a fall, death is highly likely.

Remoteness

4 out of 4

In the high mountains or remote conditions, all individuals must be completely autonomous in every situation.

Best time to visit

January, February, March, April

Features

  • Alpine
  • Cliffs
  • Ski Mountaineering

Equipment required

  • Rope
  • Skins
  • Ice axe
  • Crampons
  • Glacier kit

Similar routes nearby

Guidebooks in this area