South Face of the Dent du Géant

Aiguille du Midi

Chamonix

Skyway Monte Bianco

A huge and exposed face beneath one of the most iconic 4000ers.

Also in Haute-Savoie, France

Ski Touring Extreme

Distance
2.8 km
Ascent
511 m
Descent
964 m
Duration
1-2 hrs
Low Point
2.9 km
High Point
3.8 km
Gradient
54˚
VIEW ON MAP
South Face of the Dent du Géant Map

Description

From the top lift of the Skyway Mont Bianco, approach as for the classic Marbrées descent. Continue past the Aiguille Marbrées and up to the toe of a small ridge coming down from the west side of the Dent du Géant. Climb up a short 50 degree gully (including a possible small ice step) and continue up the easy mixed ground above. Follow the rough line of the summer approach route for the Dent du Géant. Once at the foot of the vertical south side of the Dent du Géant itself, descend directly down into the South Face. The top is steep and often rocky. Pick a line between some tight rocks before the slope opens up and the angle lessens. Enjoy making big turns on the huge 40 degree face before veering skier's right above the cliffs. There is a short but steep slope to ski down which brings you into the bottom of the Marbrées descent. Continue skiing right and pass the seracs of the Rôchefort Glacier. Now go down and move left to a large plateau, heading towards Val Ferret. Be aware of the big couloirs above your head that can avalanche when there are high temperatures or after snowfalls. When you reach the woods keep always a bit left until you reach the small and charming Rôchefort village. Ski down to the Val Ferret road and from here walk down 30 minutes to the Sky Way or wait for the public bus. Have an ice cream in Courmayeur while you gaze admiring up at your line, easily visible from the town center.

Difficulty

Extreme

Extreme skiing terrain above 45 degrees. These routes are reserved for experienced experts.

High Exposure (E3)

3 out of 4

In case of a fall, death is highly likely.

Remoteness

4 out of 4

In the high mountains or remote conditions, all individuals must be completely autonomous in every situation.

Best time to visit

January, February, March, April

Features

  • Cliffs

Equipment required

  • Rope
  • Skins
  • Crampons
  • Glacier kit

Similar routes nearby

Guidebooks in this area