Traverse of Aiguille de Toule, 3534m, W to E.
An aesthetic short traverse and a good introduction to steeper snow.
Difficult Alpine Climbing
- Distance
- 3.4 km
- Ascent
- 297 m
- Descent
- 297 m
An amazingly exposed rocky ridge, but never too hard, with incredible views
Alpine Climbing Difficult
From the top of the lift follow the obvious track in the snow that heads horizontally to the N. This is a common start to numerous different routes. Descend a short steep slope under the Aiguille de Toule, then a long slow journey up to Col d'Entrèves. Your route begins here to the L. Start up the rocky ridge, roughly following the crest, with small sections on either side. Before long there is a tricky downclimb to a small notch, with again tricky move or two leaving the notch. Regain the ridge crest which becomes very exposed and photogenic. There is the occasional piece of fixed gear and the odd sling that could be pulled on if needed, shortly before the summit itself. Down climbing from the summit is probably preferable to rappelling as it is easy to get ropes jammed. You follow a series of cracks with the odd bolt. When the ridge flattens out stay on the crest on deteriorating rock, then up slightly, passing to the right of the final rocks, then to the end of the ridge and down R to the glacier. Early season you can take a direct descent to the foot of the Aiguille de Toule, but crevasses often preclude this- you can suss this out from your approach in the morning. More commonly descend down L to rejoin your approach tracks, much higher up the glacier, then return the same way.
Difficult
The beginning of truly technical terrain which might involve pitched climbing on rock and/or ice, exposed terrain and complex route finding in ascent and descent. Equivalent to AD, AD+
An aesthetic short traverse and a good introduction to steeper snow.
Difficult Alpine Climbing
A megaclassic rite of passage for the budding N Face alpinist.
Severe Alpine Climbing
A relatively short route to a fantastic summit with breathtaking views of the S side of Mont Blanc
Moderate Alpine Climbing
A great introduction to one of the more accessible N faces in the area.
Difficult Alpine Climbing
1 m away
A long and very committing route of the highest calibre
Severe Alpine Climbing
98 m away
A great training route that can be done in either direction, easier N to S as described.
Moderate Alpine Climbing
105 m away
A popular and exposed route to a stunning granite spire, with epic views.
Difficult Alpine Climbing
3.5 km away
An unforgettable journey through complex terrain for the 4000m peak connoisseur
Difficult Alpine Climbing
4.1 km away
Committed now, you continue your sensational journey, space-walking along the historic ridge.
Severe Alpine Climbing
5 km away
An iconic and accessible route with great and varied climbing, with amazing exposure down to Chamonix
Difficult Alpine Climbing
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