Traverse of Aiguille de Toule, 3534m, W to E.

Aiguille du Midi

Chamonix

Skyway Monte Bianco

An aesthetic short traverse and a good introduction to steeper snow.

Also in Haute-Savoie, France

Alpine Climbing Difficult

Distance
3.4 km
Ascent
297 m
Descent
297 m
Low Point
3.3 km
High Point
3.5 km
Gradient
25˚
Traverse of Aiguille de Toule, 3534m, W to E. Map

This rapidly accessed summit can most simply and easily be done as an out and back trip, up the E ridge. Described here though is the more aesthetic traverse of the peak. Follow the standard approach to numerous routes in this area from the top of the lift, for example the Traverse of the Entrèves , dropping down and passing underneath the N face of your peak. Leaving this track head up to the W face of the Aiguille de Toule, which is snow or possibly ice up to about 45 degrees. There is no distinct line, but it is common to climb on the L side as you can use rock runners and belays if needed. There is an attractive snowy crest and some easy scrambling above to the summit. Descent down the E ridge is an easy scramble down on broken rocks, followed by low angled glacier, taking you quickly back to the lift station, rejoining your earlier approach.

Difficulty

Difficult

The beginning of truly technical terrain which might involve pitched climbing on rock and/or ice, exposed terrain and complex route finding in ascent and descent. Equivalent to AD, AD+

Medium Exposure

2 out of 4

The route features some exposed and/or difficult to protect sections.

Remoteness

2 out of 4

Away from help but easily accessed.

Best time to visit

June, July, August

Equipment required

  • Ice axe
  • Crampons
  • Glacier kit

Similar routes nearby

Guidebooks in this area