Deant du Geant, 4013m

Aiguille du Midi

Chamonix

Skyway Monte Bianco

A popular and exposed route to a stunning granite spire, with epic views.

Also in Haute-Savoie, France

Alpine Climbing Difficult

Distance
5 km
Ascent
725 m
Descent
725 m
Low Point
3.3 km
High Point
4 km
Gradient
40˚
VIEW ON MAP
Deant du Geant, 4013m Map

Description

From the Torino Hut descend slightly to the Col du Géant, then rise up gently initially passing the Aiguilles Marbrées to their left. Continue up snow slopes to steeper slopes which then become mixed. In early season this steep slope is pleasant mixed ground with odd rocky steps. Later on it becomes loose scree and scrambling with rockfall danger from other parties. Various lines exist on the upper section of this slope with occasional cairns and crampon scratches as waymarkers. After 2- 2 ½ hours you reach the foot of the Dent itself at the “Salle a Manger”.

You have the option of leaving sacks but may want to leave crampons/axe on ledges at the foot of the SW arete. Don't do this if you aren't confident about returning to them from the foot of the rap line- this is in a different place. From the ledge traverse round left to bolt belays (3+). Go up the groove above (2+) to a large platform above. No route finding difficulties will be found from here on as it is equipped with enormous fixed ropes, similar to those found on the Matterhorn. Initially these are low angled up the Burgener slabs, then they head up to the R before steep and strenuous yarding up the final steepening to the W summit. The notch lies beyond and the E summit the far side of it. 2 hours from the Salle a Manger but much longer if it is overcrowded.

This summit is probably the best lightning conductor in the Alps so avoid at all costs with even the faintest forecast/signs of storms/lightning. Even in a completely cloudless blue sky cumulonimbus clouds can develop with alarming speed if there is sufficient heat and humidity. The descent is equipped for multiple 25m raps and starts from the notch between the 2 summits.

Difficulty

Difficult

The beginning of truly technical terrain which might involve pitched climbing on rock and/or ice, exposed terrain and complex route finding in ascent and descent. Equivalent to AD, AD+

Medium Exposure

2 out of 4

The route features some exposed and/or difficult to protect sections.

Remoteness

2 out of 4

Away from help but easily accessed.

Best time to visit

June, July, August, September

Equipment required

  • Ice axe
  • Crampons
  • Quickdraws
  • Glacier kit

Similar routes nearby

Guidebooks in this area