Aiguille de Toule, N Face

Aiguille du Midi

Chamonix

Skyway Monte Bianco

A great introduction to one of the more accessible N faces in the area.

Also in Haute-Savoie, France

Alpine Climbing Difficult

Distance
3.1 km
Ascent
290 m
Descent
290 m
Low Point
3.3 km
High Point
3.5 km
Gradient
29˚
VIEW ON MAP
Aiguille de Toule, N Face Map

Description

This is a popular short N Face that is usually in good condition in the spring and early summer. Late summer and autumn may bring conditions back in, but it is often not good in August. Take the major track from Helbronner, as for the described route Traverse of the Auiguille d’Entrèves, descending to near its lowest point, underneath the Aiguille de Toule. The exact crossing point of the rimaye will vary from year to year, and indeed the face itself can be climbed almost anywhere. In good conditions the most aesthetic line is to go to the R of a rocky buttress in the centre of the face. This leads to a narrow gully that splits the rocks either side, taking you up a few pitches to a snowy crest. In leaner conditions it may be better to go more up the centre of the face, then trending R at the top. Both routes lead to a final snowy crest, then easy rocks to the summit. Descend either E ridge or the W face. Both are marked as the route Traverse of the Aiguille de Toule.

Difficulty

Difficult

The beginning of truly technical terrain which might involve pitched climbing on rock and/or ice, exposed terrain and complex route finding in ascent and descent. Equivalent to AD, AD+

High Exposure

3 out of 4

Much of the route is difficult to protect and a fall could be disastrous at certain points.

Remoteness

2 out of 4

Away from help but easily accessed.

Best time to visit

March, April, May, June, July

Equipment required

  • Crampons
  • Quickdraws
  • Glacier kit
  • 2 Ice Axes
  • Wires and Friends

Similar routes nearby

Guidebooks in this area