Aiguilles Marbrées Traverse

Aiguille du Midi

Chamonix

Skyway Monte Bianco

A great training route that can be done in either direction, easier N to S as described.

Alpine Climbing Moderate

Distance
2.7 km
Ascent
248 m
Descent
249 m
Low Point
3.3 km
High Point
3.5 km
Gradient
22˚
Aiguilles Marbrées Traverse Map

This is a lovely mixed route, which is relatively straightforward early season when it is snow covered. Loose rock, the descent gully and the bergschrund can be problematic later in the season. From the Torino Hut follow the track heading towards the Dent to Géant, but branch off it to the R, heading for the Col de Rochefort. The ridge starts on your R and is generally easy mixed climbing, with usually avoidable difficulties. There is the odd harder part that may need protection, but mostly you can move together, using the rope and the various spikes for protection. The summit itself is slightly harder, but a fun short diversion from the main ridge, usually with an in situ rappel point at the top. Descending along the ridge, to the S, you avoid a number of tricky parts, usually bypassing them on the Italian side. There are several optional snowy descent couloirs on the French side, to shorten the traverse. If you continue along the ridge to its furthest and lowest point there is another rappel point of 25m, to take you down towards the glacier. It is a short walk back to the hut and lift station.

Difficulty

Moderate

May involve slightly more complex glacier hikes, easy but possibly long rock ridges and steep snow up to 45 degrees. Equivalent to PD, PD+

Medium Exposure

2 out of 4

The route features some exposed and/or difficult to protect sections.

Remoteness

2 out of 4

Away from help but easily accessed.

Best time to visit

May, June, July

Equipment required

  • Ice axe
  • Crampons
  • Quickdraws
  • Glacier kit
  • Wires and Friends

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