Aiguille du Rôchefort South Face

Chamonix

Skyway Monte Bianco

A stunning and rarely descended line starting from 4000 meters on one of the most famous ridgelines of the Alps.

Also in Haute-Savoie, France

Ski Touring Extreme

Distance
3.4 km
Ascent
528 m
Descent
1.5 km
Duration
2-3 hrs
Low Point
2.6 km
High Point
3.9 km
Gradient
57˚
Aiguille du Rôchefort South Face Map

From the top lift of the Skyway Mont Bianco, approach as for the classic Marbrées descent. Continue past the Aiguille Marbrées and up to the ridge coming down from the Dent du Géant, but to the looker's right side of the mountain. The approach couloir is located about 300 meters to the right of the approach for the Dent du Géant South Face. The couloir is located just to the left of point 3537 marked on the map. The correct couloir is the most straightforward to climb of the several small couloirs coming down from the ridge. From the top of the ridgeline, traverse hard with skis on across the bottom of the South Face of the Dent du Geant. This long traverse on skis (be careful on the hard refrozen snow early in the morning) eliminates climbing the bottom two thirds of the line and makes for the most logical approach. Climb the remainder of the couloir which tops out at 4000 meters on the Rochefort Arête. The top is very steep (55 degrees) before lessening to 50 and then remaining sustained at 45. Depending on the conditions, it may be necessary to make an abseil near the top of the line. Continue down the narrow couloir directly below or make a hard traverse skier's left and out onto the exposed face. The couloir may require a further abseil, but it is the most logical line to take. Join up with the classic Marbrées route and descend to Val Ferret.

Difficulty

Extreme

Extreme skiing terrain above 45 degrees. These routes are reserved for experienced experts.

Extreme Exposure (E4)

4 out of 4

In case of a fall, the skier faces certain death.

Remoteness

4 out of 4

In the high mountains or remote conditions, all individuals must be completely autonomous in every situation.

Best time to visit

March, April

Features

  • Cliffs

Equipment required

  • Rope
  • Skins
  • Crampons
  • Glacier kit

Similar routes nearby

Guidebooks in this area