Weissmies, 4017m, from Hohsaas

This is a standard route up a popular mountain, with no particular difficulty. It is however very exposed to serac fall, so seek local knowledge from either the Guides Office or the guardian of the Hohsaas Hut. From the Hohsaas cable car top station and hut, head SE down the major track to reach the edge of the Trift Glacier. Continue SE up this to reach the foot of the Weissmies NW face. Stop going SE before you end up in the fall-line of some large seracs on the W face. Instead start climbing SW up jumbled glacial terrain and then follow the vague, rounded shoulder leading towards point 3815 m. Fifty metres before reaching point 3815m, branch off left and follow the L side of the broad snow ridge to the summit of the Weissmies.