Weissmies, 4017m, from Hohsaas

Saas Fee

A very popular route to a relatively easy 4000m peak, also commonly climbed in the spring as a ski tour

Alpine Climbing Moderate

Distance
6 km
Ascent
981 m
Descent
981 m
Low Point
3.1 km
High Point
4 km
Gradient
28˚
Weissmies, 4017m, from Hohsaas Map

This is a standard route up a popular mountain, with no particular difficulty. It is however very exposed to serac fall, so seek local knowledge from either the Guides Office or the guardian of the Hohsaas Hut. From the Hohsaas cable car top station and hut, head SE down the major track to reach the edge of the Trift Glacier. Continue SE up this to reach the foot of the Weissmies NW face. Stop going SE before you end up in the fall-line of some large seracs on the W face. Instead start climbing SW up jumbled glacial terrain and then follow the vague, rounded shoulder leading towards point 3815 m. Fifty metres before reaching point 3815m, branch off left and follow the L side of the broad snow ridge to the summit of the Weissmies.

Difficulty

Moderate

May involve slightly more complex glacier hikes, easy but possibly long rock ridges and steep snow up to 45 degrees. Equivalent to PD, PD+

Low Exposure

1 out of 4

The route is well protected or easy enough that protection is not required.

Remoteness

2 out of 4

Away from help but easily accessed.

Best time to visit

March, April, May, June, July, August

Equipment required

  • Ice axe
  • Crampons
  • Glacier kit

Similar routes nearby

Guidebooks in this area