2.6 km away
Approach to the Goûter Hut
A significant day itself accessing the highest guardian-ed hut in France.
Moderate Alpine Climbing
- Distance
- 4.4 km
- Ascent
- 1.5 km
- Descent
- 17 m
The most popular route up the highest peak in Western Europe.
Alpine Climbing Moderate
With an extremely early start leave the hut and go almost horizontally with amazing views of the lights in the valley far below, over your R shoulder. Take care to have plenty of rope between you and if you are only a pair then consider knots in the rope, as it is extremely hard to hold a fall into a crevasse as just a rope of two. Many people will have short ropes or no rope but don’t do this here! Slowly the slope steepens up on the N side of the Dôme du Goûter, though it's never that steep. If you want an extra summit you can visit the summit of the Dôme du Goûter, though this adds a small amount of time. Either way you descend a little to the Col des Dômes at 4236m. Shortly above here is the Vallot Hut at 4362m, the highest building in France. It is an emergency shelter only that unfortunately gets abused and littered, but a quick visit to escape the wind is fine. From here on up is the Bosses ridge, leading to the summit. You pretty much follow it direct on the ridge, entirely on snow and ice, with a significant degree of exposure in places. There may be parallel tracks, useful as others will be descending. Surefootedness is needed and good crampon technique, as well as a short rope if you are safeguarding one or two other people of lesser experience. A slip is far more likely than a fall into a crevasse here, so a long rope is inappropriate and will annoy others, as it may appear like a trip line. Slowly the whaleback crest angles off to your summit, which hopefully you will experience in the beautiful early morning light, the incredible view distracting you from the cold, and possibly your headache and tired body. The descent is the reverse of your ascent route, to the Goûter hut again. You could stay here if you have booked, or if not continue down the standard route you came up the day before, taking care to avoid crossing the Grand Couloir in the full afternoon sun. Congratulations on an amazing day out that many people underestimate.
Moderate
May involve slightly more complex glacier hikes, easy but possibly long rock ridges and steep snow up to 45 degrees. Equivalent to PD, PD+
2.6 km away
A significant day itself accessing the highest guardian-ed hut in France.
Moderate Alpine Climbing
3.2 km away
The most amazing traverse of several 4000m peaks including the iconic Aiguille du Bionnassay and Mont Blanc
Difficult Alpine Climbing
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A fantastic route from the wild Italian side of the mountain traversing to descend into France
Moderate Alpine Climbing
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Though this a normal route it is a relatively steep route up a N Face and is an avalanche black spot
Moderate Alpine Climbing
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A characterful N Face in a wild location, but with relatively easy access.
Difficult Alpine Climbing
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A huge day out through very complicated glacial terrain to the highest peak in Western Europe
Moderate Alpine Climbing
5.4 km away
A wonderful high mountain journey through huge, wild mountains
Moderate Alpine Climbing
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A truly classic route, which is serious and exposed but not technically difficult.
Difficult Alpine Climbing
5.6 km away
An iconic and accessible route with great and varied climbing, with amazing exposure down to Chamonix
Difficult Alpine Climbing
7.1 km away
A very long and remote day that can be halved by staying in the Plan Glacier Hut
Moderate Alpine Climbing
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