Gross and Hinter Fiescherhorns from the Finsteraarhorn Hut

Bernese Oberland

Two summits of 4000m that can easily be combined in a single outing.

Alpine Climbing Moderate

Distance
13 km
Ascent
1.2 km
Descent
1.2 km
Low Point
3 km
High Point
4 km
Gradient
20˚
Gross and Hinter Fiescherhorns from the Finsteraarhorn Hut Map

The Gross Fiescherhorn is undeniably a major mountain, with its huge N wall, the Fiescherwand, dropping away impressively from the summit. However from the S it is quite accessible in standard, from the Finsteraarhorn Hut. The Hinter Fiescherhorn is of much less interest but an irresistible add-on peak, both peaks having excellent views from the top.

Description

From the hut descend to the main glacier below. Head very gently to the NW up the long Fiescher Glacier, heading for the R hand side of the icefall at the head of the glacier. Pick a line through the crevasses, watching for the seracs far above you. In early season you may be able to head up through the crevasses further L, thereby almost entirely avoiding the serac fall danger above. The upper part of the glacier is also easy angled, taking you towards the col in between the 2 Fiescherhorns. You can go up these in either order, but the route is marked as going up the Gross first, as it is the major summit with more technical ground and a better view. Allow 45 mins to the summit and half an hour down. It is mixed scrambling, the first part getting onto the ridge the hardest bit. A rappel point may be in situ there for the descent. From there a short snowy descent allows a straightforward ascent to the summit of the Hinter.

Descent to the hut is straightforward, following your line of ascent.

Difficulty

Moderate

May involve slightly more complex glacier hikes, easy but possibly long rock ridges and steep snow up to 45 degrees. Equivalent to PD, PD+

Medium Exposure

2 out of 4

The route features some exposed and/or difficult to protect sections.

Remoteness

3 out of 4

Little chance of being seen or helped in case of an accident.

Best time to visit

June, July, August

Equipment required

  • Ice axe
  • Crampons
  • Glacier kit

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