14 m away
Matterhorn, 4478m. Hörnli Ridge.
The least difficult route up the most famous mountain in the Alps, if not the world.
Difficult Alpine Climbing
- Distance
- 3.5 km
- Ascent
- 1.2 km
- Descent
- 1.2 km
Matterhorn via Zmutt ridge
Cervinia
An adventurous and aesthetic line up the most famous mountain in the world
Alpine Climbing Severe
- Distance
- 3.9 km
- Ascent
- 1.3 km
- Descent
- 185 m
- Low Point
- 3.2 km
- High Point
- 4.4 km
- Gradient
- 48˚
The Matterhorn is probably the most recognisable peak in the world. The steep, wonky pyramid is like the fantastical form of a mountain that children draw. It remains one of the most sought-after mountaineering objectives in Europe due to this iconic shape and the reputation it gained after the disastrous first ascent.
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Description
Each time I set foot on the route, I am still astounded by the tenacity and gall of those that first attempted the mountain in the 19th century. Despite my aversion to the busy Hörnli ridge, the Matterhorn is an excellent objective. The Zmutt ridge, in particular, offers a route that matches the iconic ideas we have of this peak.
Difficulty
Severe
Steep, sustained and serious terrain on rock/ice. Routes will be long, exposed and possibly committing. D, D+
Extreme Exposure
The majority of the route is "no fall" terrain.
Remoteness
Away from help but easily accessed.
Best time to visit
Equipment required
- Ice axe
- Crampons
- Quickdraws
- Glacier kit
- Wires and Friends
Similar routes nearby
6.5 km away
Breithorn South Face to the Guide d'Ayas Hut
A popular route on a beautifully positioned peak.
Moderate Alpine Climbing
- Distance
- 6.3 km
- Ascent
- 388 m
- Descent
- 817 m
6.5 km away
Approach to the Rossi e Volante Bivouac Hut
A simple but beautiful glacial journey
Easy Alpine Climbing
- Distance
- 3.8 km
- Ascent
- 191 m
- Descent
- 244 m
6.8 km away
Approach to the Monte Rosa Hut, 2883m
A brand new route to the hut, taking a beautiful but easy glacial mountain journey
Easy Alpine Climbing
- Distance
- 7.4 km
- Ascent
- 505 m
- Descent
- 436 m
7.3 km away
Dent Blanche South Ridge
A true alpine classic with utterly spectacular views across the other 4000ers of the Swiss Valais.
Difficult Alpine Climbing
- Distance
- 4.2 km
- Ascent
- 851 m
- Descent
- 849 m
7.5 km away
Zinalrothorn, 4221m. Traverse of SE Ridge, descending N Ridge.
A justifiably popular traverse of a beautiful mountain, on very good rock.
Difficult Alpine Climbing
- Distance
- 6.3 km
- Ascent
- 984 m
- Descent
- 1.3 km
7.5 km away
Obergabelhorn, 4063m. ENE Ridge via Wellenkuppe.
A beautifully shaped mountain, unusual in having its least difficult route via another summit.
Difficult Alpine Climbing
- Distance
- 7.3 km
- Ascent
- 972 m
- Descent
- 972 m
9.3 km away
Traverse of the Breithorn
One of the best easier 4000m ridge traverses in the Alps
Difficult Alpine Climbing
- Distance
- 5.5 km
- Ascent
- 678 m
- Descent
- 601 m
9.8 km away
Pollux, 4092m
A relatively minor summit, but a 4000m peak nonetheless, surrounded by others.
Moderate Alpine Climbing
- Distance
- 3.5 km
- Ascent
- 646 m
- Descent
- 646 m
9.8 km away
Castor traverse, 4223m
A classic high traverse of a major 4000m peak
Moderate Alpine Climbing
- Distance
- 5.3 km
- Ascent
- 823 m
- Descent
- 605 m
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Guidebooks in this area
6 routes · Alpine Climbing · Hiking
Zermatt's Mighty 4000 Metre Mountains
6 routes · Alpine Climbing
The Classic Spaghetti Tour of Zermatt's 4000ers
11 routes · Alpine Climbing · Hiking
Huge Peaks & Epic Views : Easy Swiss Alpine Climbs
10 routes · Alpine Climbing · Hiking
Climb 5 of Switzerland's Biggest and Baddest 4000m Peaks
6 routes · Alpine Climbing
Climb the Alpine Big 3 : Mont Blanc, Eiger & Matterhorn
6 routes · Alpine Climbing · Hiking
Classic Mid-Grade Traverses on the Alpine 4000ers
10 routes · Alpine Climbing · Hiking
High, Long and Serious : Traverse 5 Tough Alpine 4000ers
9 routes · Alpine Climbing · Hiking
Summit the Highest Peaks in the 4 Main Alpine Countries
20 routes · Alpine Climbing · Hiking
Climb Switzerland's 10 Highest Peaks!
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